Most people think about size first. Carat weight, budget, stone. Cut tends to come later.
In fact - that is the wrong order.
Shape determines the character of a piece more than any other single decision. It affects how large the stone appears, how it returns light, how it sits on the hand, and whether it suits the setting. Getting the cut right first makes every other decision easier.
Round Brilliant
The benchmark. 58 facets, engineered over decades to maximise light return. If brilliance - that scintillating movement of light in and out of the stone is the priority, nothing matches it. The most versatile cut: it suits every setting style and every hand.
Oval
An elongated round with similar light performance, and the visual effect of appearing larger per carat. The elongated profile covers more surface area on the finger and has a lengthening effect on the hand. Currently the most popular alternative to round for engagement rings.
Cushion
Square or rectangular, with rounded corners and curved sides. The cushion cut has a softer character than angular alternatives - a warmer glow rather than sharp scintillation. The romantic choice.
Emerald
A rectangular step cut. Parallel facets create a hall-of-mirrors effect rather than the sparkle of brilliant cuts. Architectural, graphic, considered. The emerald cut reveals the stone more than it hides it - which means clarity is visible in a way it is not in brilliant cuts. If you are drawn to an emerald cut, prioritise clarity grade above everything else.
Pear and Marquise
Both elongated, both pointed at one or both ends. Both appear large for their carat weight and create a lengthening effect on the finger. Both require careful prong placement at the tips to protect against chipping. The most dramatic of the cuts.
What changes between them
Perceived size: ovals, pears, and marquises appear larger per carat because their elongated profiles cover more surface area. Round brilliants appear slightly smaller despite identical carat weight.
Price: round brilliants command a premium. More rough is lost in cutting to achieve the cut, and the precision required is higher.
Clarity requirements: brilliant cuts mask inclusions through complex faceting. Step cuts reveal them. Choose your clarity grade based on your cut first.
The cut you choose defines the piece. It is worth choosing it first.
